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12/04/2017

Greeted at the door by a well-presented team, we were led to a room which was dimly lit, soft music was playing and only the slight flicker of a single candle gave sufficient light to see placed in front of each of us was a black satin blindfold… 

If you’re thinking Shades of Grey, think again. This is what’s known as dining in the dark and offers a brand new experience for those who wish to take a culinary experience to the next level.

The Hand Picked Hotels Group has been supporting Earth Hour for several years but this year Marketing Executive at Grand Jersey, Alana Rimeur decided to take the commitment to another level. Not satisfied with simply dimming the lights for an hour, she devised an evening based on past experiences in establishments such as Dans Le Noir where diners are served food in the dark by partially sighted staff.

The atmosphere in the room as guest took to their seats could only be described as electric - interesting considering the theme of the evening was about supporting conservation around the world. Who knows, perhaps humans do have the capacity to develop their own power based on emotions? And if that was the case this evening, we wouldn’t need to burn any fossil fuels. 

The format of the evening was explained and we were instructed to position our blindfolds over our eyes ensuring that it was secure. The rules were simple. No peeking during each course and get a sense of the space around you to avoid spilling wine.

The first thing we both noticed when blind-folded was the noise level. We could tune into conversations on other tables whereas before, our visual experience was very much focused on each other and the table at which we were sitting.

Amuse Bouche
The Amuse Bouche was placed in front of us. The aroma was powerful so we took time to savour each moment. The textures, smells and fragrances were amplified beyond expectation. 

Trout caviar, seaweed jelly, oyster leaf, yuzu gel and compressed cucumber provided an unusual combination that conjured up descriptions such squidgy, frothy and fishy. It was definitely all of those things but it worked perfectly. A large group sitting next to us called out a multitude of flavours too. But many of our suggestions of whelks, oysters and frog spawn weren’t part of this complex dish. The white Alberino was served and its crispness cut through the strong flavours to leave a clean palette. 

Once finished, we removed our masks for a joyful few minutes to get our bearings and discuss enthusiastically the experience. It’s only then you see how much food you have missed on your plate. 

Starter
We were either getting the hang of it or the ingredients were more obvious in the next course. Crab with passion fruit gel, avocado, combava lime, mango and coconut foam created more traditional variations although neither of us guessed that coconut was part of it.

Intermediate
The next dish was instantly recognisable. Pan fried Nantes Goose liver has a distinctive taste and texture. Served with Pedro Ximénez jelly, pain d’épice à la purée and sweetcorn ice cream. This time we trifled with the last ingredient and only once told do you kick yourself as it’s so obvious. The expectation of sweetcorn ice cream was an excellent way to trick the mind. Served with a muscat from the Rhone Valley. It was a perfect accompaniment.

Main Course One
Who would have thought Turbot, the king of fish could be mistaken for Jersey Sea Bass? Well with a lack of visual guidance we both got this wrong although hubby assured me it was my suggestion that influenced him and blamed it on my powers of persuasion.  It was served with saffron risotto, mussels, sea vegetable and Ebène caviar. All fairly easy to identify and much easier to eat without the benefit of seeing what you’re doing.  

Served with a 2015 Catena Chardonnay which combines the unique expressions of three high altitude vineyard sites. The wonderful combination of honey and tropical fruit with an interesting note of citrus, peaches, pear and delicate flowers. It has a strong minerality and subtle notes of vanilla. Exquisite and perfectly matched with the dish. 

Main Course Two
Classic Herd pork belly - a favourite of hubbies - needed no introduction. Served with a divine sticky pig cheek, compressed pineapple, chorizo purée and kale. Could we place the sweetness of the pineapple? Not a chance. By simply altering the texture we were fooled into believing it was mango. The pork skin popcorn provided a posh version of pork scratching - a bit tricky to eat blindfolded so fingers were involved at this stage. Well no one’s looking, after all. 

Pre-dessert
Lemon cream with lemongrass granite - caused some confusion. Again a clever mix of different temperatures tricks the mind.  The lemon was obvious but not the subtle hints of lemongrass that provided a freshness perfect to prepare for the last dish.

Dessert
Jersey apple, pecan nuts, La Mare Vineyards’ Calvados and apple sorbet. This one I really wish I had seen before I began eating it. A stunning hollow ball of chocolate painted Granny Smith green. Visually stunning even when half devoured.

After dinner, Executive Head Chef, Nicolas Valmagna visited each table and chatted with diners. Everyone was enthusiastically describing the menu and relished sharing their moments when they were completely wrong.

Life today is a minefield of constant stimulation. We are glued to technical devices, so savouring a meal uninterrupted by phones and emails allowed us to enjoy the experience of other senses which are heightened. Aromas, textures and sounds all become intense. 

Without being able to clock watch we were surprised by how quickly time flew and we felt relaxed once we had packed our blindfolds away with a sense of appreciation for reinstating the gift of sight. 

If one was to choose mindfulness as a dining experience - this is it. However, being a visual person I am really keen to return and order the same menu but with the benefit of seeing each dish, in saying that I really don’t need an excuse to visit Tassili. It’s one of my favourite restaurants in Jersey and with a three AA Rossette rating, the only thing that’s missing is a Michelin star. The staff, the wines, the food and incredibly talented chef provide all the ingredients for the exemplary standards required. And if the Michelin judges can’t see that, they must be blind.

Dining in the Dark to return in 2023.

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